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Β· John Roth

Should I Repair My Leaning Fence or Replace the Whole Thing?

A leaning fence doesn't always mean a new fence. Here's the checklist I go through when I walk your fence line.

Usually worth repairing

  • One or two posts are broken or rotted, and the rest are solid. We dig out the bad posts, set new ones in concrete, and re-hang the sections.
  • Wind took down a section or two.
  • Loose rails or pickets, with the posts still sound.
  • A sagging gate, which usually needs new hinges, a brace, or a better post.
  • The fence is less than about 10 years old and the wood itself is still in good shape.

Usually time to replace

  • Posts are going all down the line. Push on a few. If several move at the ground, the rest are close behind. Replacing posts one at a time on an old fence costs more in the end.
  • Pickets are brittle, split and gray all the way through. Old pickets break when you pull rails off them, and new boards won't match.
  • The fence is 15 years old or more and has never been stained.
  • Repairs would cost more than about half of a new fence. At that point you're putting new parts on old wood.

How to check your own fence

  1. Push on the posts at shoulder height. Wobble at the ground means rot or loose concrete.
  2. Poke the posts at the dirt line with a screwdriver. If it sinks in, it's rot.
  3. Look down the line for how many sections lean, not just one.
  4. Check the rails where they meet the posts. Rusted nails and split ends mean the fence is tired.

Honest pricing either way

On a repair, we tell you up front if old boards might break while we work, and how we handle it. If a new fence makes more sense, we'll say so and show you the numbers. A new fence with PostSaver sleeves on the posts should outlast the old one by years.

Call me, and I'll walk the line with you and give you both options.